Friday, June 29, 2012

Life in the Favelas


Favela overlooking Copacabana
It was an incredible day in Rio.  We began our day by walking to the Copacabana neighborhood and visiting Criança Esperança.  This organization serves the residents of the favela located in the hills above the world renowned beach.  Favelas are communities that are built on unused publicly or privately owned land by residents who cannot afford to live in Rio’s pre-established neighborhoods. Where Americans would build mansions with fabulous coastal views, the cities of Brazil’s poorest have their homes.  We were given a guided tour of the favela and NGO facility located nearby.  Our NGO tour guides did a wonderful job of answering our questions.  We learned about the ingenuity of the residents as they have worked together as a community to meet their needs.  We saw the intricate wiring that provides electricity to the community.  I was surprised to learn that the favelas also have phone service. There was an area where residents could bring their propane gas tanks to be filled.  Plumbing was on the outside of the buildings and looked modern and well installed.    

A market in the favela

 There were shops inside the favela that served the commercial needs of the residents.  There was a market that looked like it could have been on the streets below.  It also appeared that residents sold or traded clothing and goods with one another.

Technical Practice Rooms

The classroom used for vocational training
One of the impressive services that Criança Esperança provides is job training. Residents who are interested take an exam.  Those that pass are invited to learn skills such as construction or hydraulics.  I was impressed with the modern classroom.  It included a lab of computers as well as small rooms set up as a restroom and laundry room. Participants are paid to work on building the Criança Esperança facility while being trained. When they finish, they receive a certificate which can be used to apply for jobs in the neighboring communities of Rio.  Job offerings were posted.  On the day that we visited there were 132 jobs listed. Criança Esperança has a strong philosophy of teaching the residents about ecology.  The grounds include a community garden.  They hope that the children and adults learn to appreciate all that nature has to offer including the growing of food, as well as the beautiful recreation space it provides. 

The favelas have a history of being violent and unwelcome places to visit or live.  The Brazilian government has chosen to invest in the lives of the residents and provide resources to make it a safer community.  Many security officers were visible in the area.  Many private companies are providing funding for the many services that are being provided through this community center.

I went into the favela feeling somewhat apprehensive about my safety. Once inside, it seemed like a calm and organized community.   I did take photographs, but felt uneasy about how the residents perceived our curiosity.  I was impressed with the resources the residents had found to meet their basic needs.  They were not following the building codes imposed in the United States, but doing what they could to provide the most comfortable life for their loved ones. A theme that emerged from our tour was the strength and power that come from community.  The residents of the favelas have developed leadership positions.  Those leaders are working with the broader community to make a better life for their families.

2 comments:

  1. These experiences have been very moving. When we were walking to the Criança Esperança it was as if we crossed into a different world. The women giving us the tour let us walk through the favela on our way inside the school, and we were able to see chickens roaming free, old shoes hanging from electrical wires, and oodles of trash.

    We were told that the trash problem in the favelas is progressively getting better, and the people in the communities are making an effort to clean up their neighborhoods.

    I had asked our guide how the materials for creating the favela houses was brought up the mountain, and even though there are roads, for the most part all the materials were hand carried. Individual peoples specializations are used, and when houses are built (most commonly after a marriage) the families help out.

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    1. The way Daniel, our logistics coordinator from PUC described the elevator we took up to the favela could not be any better. He said the elevator was like a teleport from one world to another. Like Adrienne commented, it truly was like crossing into a different world than the one we were staying at closer to sea-level. I saw a bit of irony in the fact that the lower class lived up on higher grounds in the favelas and the higher class lived on lower grounds.

      However, I agree Criança Esperança allowed us to see some real positive things going on for the lower-class favela dwellers. It's not all gloomy up on the hill. I am excited to return and participate in their work.

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