NGO: Vila Olímpica da Maré.

Our NU group got an early 7am start in order to exit the clean, well-cared for streets of the upper-class Ipanema neighborhood (Zona Sul) to go on to our morning destination which was Vila Olímpica da Maré (Maré’s Olympic Village – Zona Norte), a community center located within a large favela neighborhood (population around 130,000).  After a tour of the local facilities (gym, computer room, music room, reading room, etc.), we all settled down to listen to one of the directors of the community center recount the history and it’s current situation.

Figure 1: Christian, Vila Olímpica da Maré director, recounting the community center's history and current situation.

Christian (born in Argentina, educated in the United Kingdom, a 40-year resident of Brazil) is one of the center’s three directors and spoke excellent English, which allowed us all to listen carefully and think critically.  With respect to the history of the Maré community center, Christian explained that it was created out of necessity; a response to the favela situation.  The Maré favela itself was a result of a 20^th century mass immigration from the countryside to the cities (Rio, in this case).  The rural population was in search of work and although the city jobs quickly became occupied, 70% of that population ended up remaining in the city/suburbs … in conditions that were never intended to house such large amounts of people.  Thus, the formation of unregulated, overpopulated slums a.k.a. favelas. 

Figure 2: Osvaldozinho pointing initial pictures of the Maré Favela. circa 1920.

Figure 3: Kelvinzinho holding a portrait of the Maré Favela. circa 1950.

Amaro, a lifelong member of the favela community, founded the Maré center around 2000.  During this time, Brazil was bidding for the 2004 Olympics and in preparation for that bid, the government was ordering “sweeps” of the neighborhood to sift out drug rings/crime lords and investing in the infrastructure of the area.  However, once Brazil found out that their bid was dropped, investment immediately pulled out and the community was once again left in the hands of local crime/drug bosses.  Since then, the Maré center has struggled to raise funds because it’s considered a “lost organization,” or a community that’s not yet been “pacified” and as such, is a risky/unattractive investment. 

Figure 4: Vila Olímpica da Maré founder Amaro (left) and UNO professor Marisol Arbeláez (right).

Although the center lacks funding and resources, and is located on “negotiated territory” where gangs are the de facto law enforcement, there are so many positive changes that are taking place and we were fortunate enough to observe some of these during our short visit.  All positive change seems to be a result of the center’s strong, charismatic founder, Amaro.  Amaro has managed to build up this community center while playing the role of a middleman between the local gang leaders and the community center administration.    The center has to function within gang territory and as a result, Amaro and the other two directors walk a fine line, or what fellow-director Christian called a “razor’s edge.”  In other words, it’s an extremely precarious situation and EVERYONE proceeds with caution because no one is exempt from the local rule of law.

The Maré center attracts kids from the community through soccer and other sports (what Christian referred to as the “means”).  However, the “end-game” is education and socialization, and sports in this case have proven to be a worthy facilitator of such development.   The community center provides both a mental and physical escape for these kids … a positive, engaging alternative to the violent, crime-ridden streets of the Maré favela. 

These kids come to the community center to have fun, to apply what they’ve learned in school to real-life scenarios, and to develop themselves beyond the limited scope/capability of unstable, poorly funded public schools.  Meanwhile, the community staff has very seriously taken it upon themselves to be role models in a number of ways.  For instance, the teachers/coordinators wait in line along with the kids for their meals, which displays patience … a vital life skill.  Additionally, the teachers make it a point to be the last to offer their opinion during a group discussion, displaying once again patience and the importance of thoughtful listening.  Through this, the teachers are subtly molding theses kids’ psyches and modeling to them crucial manners and life skills … in essence, building a community based on mutual respect and understanding.  Tough job given the conditions!!!

Just an extremely informative and enlightening day.  I am constantly in a state of “checking myself,” that is, regaining perspective.  Our hotel is a couple of blocks away from the beach, situated between extremely overpriced high-rises (perhaps unoccupied given the “buyer’s market”) and expensive fashion shops.  However, this is not the reality for the majority of cariocas (Rio citizens).  Daily trips to NGOs and local communities help keep everything in perspective … and that’s important.  Our purpose here is to gain perspective.