Paraty: A Town Stuck in Time

Paraty was colonized in the 1500's by the Portuguese.  It is known as the "Venice of Brazil" because it is built between two rivers and its streets fill up with water during the rainy season.  The streets are made of cobblestone and are lower than the buildings to channel water to the bay.  What is interesting is that the town was built during different eras.  This can be seen in its architecture.  The first level of most buildings are made of wood usually during the 1600s.  Some buildings added second floors during the 1700s using different materials such as steel.  Homes that had glass windows and door knockers identified the homes for the rich.  It used to take Europeans 5 to 6 months to travel to Brazil.  Most who came to Paraty would only build small homes with only one access point and no windows to better protect themselves against home invasions.  They also only stayed in Brazil for a short period of time.  Many Europeans would only stay enough time to create a fortune or to better themselves.  As more people came, the need for a local economy emerged.  Slowly a road to Minas Gerais was developed as gold was found in the mines.  However, when the port of Rio de Janeiro became important, the traffic shifted north.  This caused the decline of this rising city.  

A view of Rua Lapa with the Slave church at the end

Originally, the town was built on sugarcane and then later on coffee and tobacco.  These products were known as "black gold" because many became rich very quickly with the help of slavery.  Although at one time Paraty was an important port, the town and its people were very segregated.  The town had multiple churches, one for each member of society.  For example,  there was a church for the rich, the poor, the slaves, and everyone else.  Most churches had a unique symbol sitting on top of its highest point.  The symbol was a rooster standing on top of a globe.  This symbol alerted incoming ships that it was a Portuguese colony.

The town is now a UNESCO patrimony protected area.  There are strict rules Paraty tries to follow in order to preserve its history and its valuable artifacts.  All tourists must be toured by a local guide.  There are only certain areas cars can drive on, the residents do their best to keep the place safe and clean, and tourists are asked to only take home souvenirs that are purchased through local shops.  Furthermore, residents work throughout the year to repair damaged buildings and to keep the traditional ways alive.  Some of the things you can still find in Paraty are carriages pulled by horses, and numerous types of cachaça (Brazilian sugarcane liquor).  Even the princes of Brazil like Prince Bertrand of Orleans-Braganza continue to have a residence here.  His vacation home is adorned with the Brazilian monarchy emblem.  The emblem includes images of the coffee and tobacco plants, a globe in the middle, topped with a ostentatious royal crown.  The crown is topped with the Catholic's church symbol of the cross.

Brazilian Monarchy Emblem

We stayed at the Pousada Condessa. A single floor  structure with 40 rooms of various sizes.  The hotel runs parallel with a man-made channel.  Many colorful boats can be seen here.  Paraty is surrounded by beautiful mountains and green forests.  This is an amazing place to visit.  It is town that is stuck in time.  Paraty is a colonial Portuguese town that preserves its history, and continues to attract tourists from around the globe.